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The Inca capital of Cuzco (from qosqo , meaning 'dried-up lake bed' or perhaps derived from cozco , a particular stone marker in the city ) was the religious and administrative centre of the empire and had a population of up to 150,000 at its peak. Dominated by the sacred gold-covered and emerald-studded Coricancha complex (or Temple of the Sun ), its greatest buildings were credited to Pachacuti. Most splendid were the temples built in honour of Inti and Mama Kilya - the former was lined with 700 2kg sheets of beaten gold, the latter with silver. The whole capital was laid out in the form of a puma (although some scholars dispute this and take the description metaphorically) with the imperial metropolis of Pumachupan forming the tail and the temple complex of Sacsayhuaman (or Saqsawaman) forming the head. Incorporating vast plazas, parklands, shrines, fountains, and canals, the splendour of Inca Cuzco now, unfortunately, survives only in the eye-witness accounts of the first Europeans who marvelled at its architecture and riches.

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After breakfast, day three starts with a one-hour trek up to the impressive Inca ruins of Runkuracay. The trail starts to follow the original paving and steep steps laid by the Incas before reaching Sayacmarca or 'Inaccessible Town' protected on three sides by sheer cliffs.


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